Eat Meat Manifesto
or, How To Grill A Steak Like A Man
by Tony LaGatta
Harry and David's Spring Sale

This seems pretty simple, huh? Get the meat, cook it, and enjoy. After all, any dummy can cook a steak, right? Perhaps, just as anyone can learn to do anything, but greatness, the Zenlike art that elevates the mundane to spiraling heights is in the details, and in this case, the results are worth the effort. Putting a truly sublime hunk of cow on a plate doesn't require a degree in culinary arts, nor does it involve spending hours upon hours in the kitchen, just some common sense, knowledge of some basic cooking techniques, and the desire to serve your guests the best damn steak they ever had.

Step 1: Cut Creator There are only three cuts of meat suitable for grilling steaks, and those are (in order of desirability and consequently, price) the tenderloin, otherwise known as a filet mignon, the rib eye (with bone, referred to as prime rib steak, without bone, a delmonico), and the sirloin strip, otherwise known as a New York strip steak, also from the loin, but from the tougher short end. Do not skimp here. Buy at least USDA Choice meat, prime if you can get it. Look for well-marbled meat, which has fat (not clear connective tissue) lines throughout it. This makes it more juicy and tender, and if you're watching your fat and cholesterol intake, too bad. You picked the wrong meal. When selecting delmonico steaks, look for a large 'tail' of meat on the outside of the steak… this is the most tender part. For filet mignon, I like to choose cuts between 1 1/2" thick to 2", for everything else 1 1/2" is huge, so go about 1" thick.

Step 2: Prep School Until you are ready to grill, remove the steaks from their store packaging, wrap them tightly in Saran wrap, and store in a cool part of your refrigerator. Placing them in the bottom shelf, way in the back, will hold them for 2 days at least. On the big day, remove them from the 'fridge, unwrap them, and put them on a platter to come to room temperature. Yes, that's right, uncovered until they get to room temp. No, you will not die from some strange meat-borne disease by doing this. Having the meat at room temperature before grilling is critical to a great steak. I usually grind some fresh pepper over the steaks while they are fresh from the fridge, and that's all. Do not poke them, put any kind of sauce on them, or generally harass them, and especially, never, ever add any salt! Salt will draw the juices out of the meat, just as stabbing them with a fork will. To paraphrase John Lennon, let 'em be.

Step 3: The Grilling Fields I use gas, but if you are using charcoal, plan on a hot-assed fire for about 20 minutes duration for cooking, and by hot I mean not being able to hold your hand over the grill for more than 2 seconds or so. For gas, get it smokin' hot, and leave it there. What you are looking for is to sear the first side of the steak to hold in the juices, and that takes some serious temperatures. First side cooking usually takes about 5 minutes for 1" to 1 1/2" steaks, and about 7 minutes for those thick filet mignons. Always cover the grill when cooking, it cuts down on flare-ups, and cooks the meat more evenly. Now flip them, and pay attention, never more than 5 minutes on the second side for medium rare. Never cut into a steak to check doneness; just poke it with your fingertip. If it feels like the underside of your forearm, it is medium rare. If you're not sure, always try to err on the side of being under done.

Step 4: To Serve Man Remove the steaks from the grill to a platter, and allow them to rest for about 5 minutes. When you cook meat, it expands, and the juices flow through it, by resting, you are letting the meat contract, thus sealing in the tenderness. This is true of any cut, steaks to roasts. You want to keep the sides simple, perhaps a baked potato and simple veggie to let the steak shine through, or maybe a salad with a good light dressing, because the steak and potato are rich enough on their own. Contrary to culinary myth, I wouldn't suggest a heavy red wine with this-again, it would tend to overpower the delicate flavors. I would prefer a decent Merlot or perhaps a young Beaujolais, nothing too tannic. You already spent enough on the meat, and a decent table wine will do: it will complement the steak instead of distracting from it. Save the good bottle for after dinner, when you can enjoy it in its own right.


Tony LaGatta is looking forward to going to hell so he can finally have enough heat for those damned filet mignons.