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I
love jeans.
I
put them on as soon as I get home from work and usually
on the weekend. Why do I wear jeans so often? They're
comfortable, practical, and you don't mind getting
them dirty. In fact, Calvin Klein even tried to sell
us pre-dirtied jeans a few seasons back. And while
that might be one of the most ridiculous trends of
the past twelve years, it almost makes sense. Let's
face it, denim is tough and versatile as it gets when
it comes to fabrics. It looks good when it gets beaten
up, doesn't get ruined in the rain, keeps you warm
in the winter, and matches everything. Jeans will
take you from hiking in the mountains to cruising
art galleries in SoHo to dinner at a trendy eatery
like SushiSamba,
provided you've got the right accessories and shoes.
In fact, I've found that one can be incredibly chic
with the right combination of jeans, good shoes, and
the right top.
Lately,
though, I've started thinking that the fashion powers
of the world are trying to irrevocably leave their
imprint on the one item that has proven least resistant
to the whims of the trendy -- classic blue jeans.
I came to this conclusion last year when I attempted
to buy some new jeans. While this may not seem too
great a challenge for many women, finding pants that
fit can be a chore if you happen to live in the long-legged
end of the female size spectrum. I'm 5'10" and a size
8. Ironically, the imagery in many fashion ads and
runway shows tends to idealize the tall, slender silhouette,
but in reality, women's pants are rarely long enough
to accommodate those physiques, and capri and ankle-length
pants only make tall women look like the Mississippi
has broken free again and we're preparing for the
deluge. Jeans, however, have always been my my safety
net, since many manufacturers offer jeans in longer
inseam lengths than regular pants. Unfortunately,
to my dismay, these same manufacturers came up with
an insidious plan to revamp their jeans styles.
Call
me crazy, but when someone calls something "classic",
I expect it to remain the same year after year. Evidently,
the folks at Eddie
Bauer disagree. They redesigned their classic
cut to fit in with the current trend of low-rise pants
instead of the traditional "on-the-natural-waist"
fit they've had for years. Besides my height, I also
have a high waist, so I find it hard to find something
that fits these days. I can't wait for the low-rise
thing to pass, not only because of my own preferences,
but because many women who opt to flaunt the low-rise
look are under the false impression that showing more
is better. Hence, the warm weather of the past couple
of summers has given way to an onslaught of fashion
victims with more spare tires than Firestone.
Mulling
over my options at Eddie Bauer, I decide to try another
style, to no avail. I'm starting to get annoyed. What's
wrong with this company? How can a conservative clothing
store get rid of its classic cut and opt for a less
traditional fit? Who would think that the 70's retro
style inundating every segment of fashion would ever
find its way into Eddie Bauer? My synapses raging
with frustration, I decide to take my shopping dollars
to The
Gap instead.
For
years I've worn "reverse fit" jeans from
The Gap. Lately though, I've found them to be a little
too baggy, so I would have to try yet another of the
Gap's nine styles of women's jeans. Once in the store,
I start grabbing everything as long as it comes in
an 8 tall and head for the dressing rooms.
Flares
and boot-cuts and wide-legs and stretch
boot-cuts and low-rise stretch flares and crease-front
boot-cuts and patch-pocket flares and stretch boot-cut
capris and motocross flare jeans with side zippers...
Suddenly,
I'm thrust into a world of 15-year olds, blindly pledging
their allegiance to the latest fad and clamoring over
the latest artistic achievement from N*Sync. Where
are the regular straight leg jeans?! Eventually, all
I'm left with is their version of "classic" cut jeans,
which aren't quite as classic as they should be. This
pair definitely fits the best, but they still seem
to hover around my hips despite the claim that they
"sit high on the waist". Choking back the alkaline
taste of desperation, I settle on them and head for
the cash register.
A
few months later while on vacation in San Francisco,
I think I've finally found the answer to my problem:
the Levi's
flagship store. A store that offers custom-made Levi's!
Even though I've never really found Levi's to fit
me very well (too small in the rise) I thought that
all would be fixed with the computers, lasers, and
other high-tech equipment in this ultra-hip, multi-floor
monument to the originators of denim. My head was
spinning looking over all of the choices of fabrics
and colors from which I could choose. I felt like
I was drunk.
An
hour and a half later, after donning a specially-designed
Levi's bodysuit so that the lasers could read my contours
more efficiently, and four or five attempts to map
my body shape in an enclosed steel room straight out
of The Matrix, reality had a cruel, cold laugh at
my expense when the beleaguered salesman and I determined
that Levi Strauss is not a friend of high-waisted
women. He finally, sheepishly admitted that scores
of other women had the same problem. This was partially
the result of Levi's redesigning their custom offerings
to include men's jeans and eliminating measuring the
rise in addition to the waist and inseam.
On
the way out of the store my boyfriend slid up to a
sales rack, picked out a pair of men's black jeans,
tossed them onto the counter, and plunked down his
cash. Total purchase and transaction time: 90 seconds.
"Don't
you need to try those on?"
"Nah,
they're my size."
"Bastard."
A
few months later I finally spotted the winning jeans
in, of all places, the Lands'
End catalog, that final bastion of conservatism.
And yes, I know what you're thinking. I, too, thought
that their jeans line would be heavy on pleats and
elastic waistbands. So imagine my surprise when I
found out that they too had updated their image and
offered several styles of jeans including a true "classic"
cut jean. Even more amazing was that their jeans come
in a few standard inseam lengths, including my 32"
inseam. You could even custom order an inseam length,
all for the low, low price of $29.50. I envisioned
myself online at 3AM, fueled by green tea, ordering
several pairs. I smiled. Then I bought.
So,
my saga had come to a happy ending -- and I managed
to pick up some good ideas amid the suffering. Marshall's,
or a similar type of off-price retailer, is a good
place to test out how different brands will fit since
they tend to stock many brands at once. Lee
jeans happen to fit pretty well too. They come in
long and sit on your natural waist, although I see
that they've recently added low-rise, boot-cut, and
the like to their lineup. Finally, if you can't bear
to part with your favorite jeans but they look like
you slid down Mount McKinley on your ass in them,
Bluejeans
Forever in Seattle can restore them for you.
Oh,
and a final note to Levi, Calvin, Georges, et. al.:
add new styles if you must. Follow the whims of fashion.
Let your imagination run riot with millions of varieties
of shapes. But leave my classic jeans alone!
This
is Laura Francoeur's first piece for our magazine.
Avid hiker and backpacker, birder, Francophile, and
a killer chef, she can also wield a Benelli shotgun
with frightening mastery. She is not a woman to be
trifled with at any costs.
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"Funny,
these looked good on the hanger." Five
Pocket "Flood" Jeans With Slits,
$54, by Guess.
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Patch
pocket super-low-rise flares, $48, from The
Gap. They come in a size 20. We dread
summer already.
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The
winning pair: Slim Classic Jeans from Land's
End, $29.50. Green plastic flip-flops not
included.
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